After four years of co-ed runway displays, Balmain returned to a dedicated men’s show on Saturday night in Paris. For his fall/winter 2024 menswear collection, creative director Olivier Rousteing is not interested in buying into the quiet luxury trend that took over in 2023. “Our most savvy clients will take the time to note the many tiny details that set these creations apart, but it’s immediately clear to all that this collection’s luxury is anything but quiet,” Rousteing wrote in his show notes this season. “We’re not interested in duplicating whatever might be the current trend—instead, we continue to build on Pierre Balmain’s audacious vision of blending the highest level of Parisian couture artistry with timeless designs that are open to a host of global, forward-looking influences,” Rousteing added. Rousteing characterized Balmain’s return to a dedicated men’s show as a “rebirth,” with him freely borrowing ideas from the women’s archive of Pierre Balmain, referencing the arsenal of codes he’s introduced, tailoring being primordial, and following his own fashion instincts. “A man that is joyful, that is confident, that is not scared of being judged, a man that is feeling free,” he said. This same mindset is clear in Rousteing’s approach to this season’s footwear. The

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